Microneedling: Benefits, Risks, Results, Recovery and Costs
Updated: 1 day ago
Microneedling is a skin treatment in which a device with very fine, sterile needles makes many tiny punctures in the skin. The skin's repair response to these small, controlled injuries can gradually improve texture, fine lines and some types of acne scarring. The changes are usually modest and build over weeks to months, and several sessions are normally needed. Microneedling does not restore lost volume or lift sagging skin. How well it works depends on what you want to improve, the device and technique used, and how your skin responds.
This guide explains how microneedling works, the different types, what the evidence shows for each skin concern, what added products such as vitamin serums, PRP and exosomes can and cannot be shown to do, who should wait or choose something else, what recovery is like, and what a course costs.
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What is microneedling?
Professional microneedling uses a handheld device, usually a motorised pen, fitted with a sterile, single-use needle cartridge. The needles pass into the skin to a set depth and create rows of very small channels, often with pinpoint bleeding. Numbing cream is often applied first. The skin looks red afterwards, much like mild sunburn, and this usually settles within a few days. [1, 2]
You may also see microneedling called collagen induction therapy. The name reflects the idea behind it: the small injuries prompt the skin to lay down new collagen, the protein that gives skin much of its strength. That name describes a proposed mechanism. It is not a promise of a particular result.
How does microneedling work?
When the needles puncture the skin, they set off the normal wound-healing process. In the days that follow, the skin releases signalling molecules involved in repair, and cells in the dermis (the layer beneath the surface) produce new collagen and elastic fibres. Over weeks to months, the early, finer collagen is gradually replaced by more mature collagen. [3] Much of this sequence has been worked out in animal and laboratory studies rather than in people's faces. [3]
Human evidence is smaller. In a study of 10 people who had six sessions two weeks apart, skin samples taken one and three months after treatment began showed more newly made collagen than before treatment. Total elastin, however, fell. [4] The study had no comparison group. A biological change in a skin sample also does not tell you how much difference you would see in the mirror.
Three practical points follow from this:
Change is gradual. Any early plumpness is mostly swelling. Improvements linked to remodelling take weeks to months to show. [3, 2]
The concern matters. Superficial texture, acne scars and pigmentation respond differently, and some do not respond well at all.
Deeper or more aggressive is not automatically better. Needle depth is set for the area and the concern, and more bleeding or more discomfort is not a sign of a better result. Lasting complications such as "tram-track" scarring, rows of small marks in the pattern of the device, have been reported. [5]
Different types of microneedling
"Microneedling" is used for several procedures that differ in how deep they go, whether they add heat, and who should carry them out. Results and risks from one cannot be assumed for another.
Type | What it does | Main differences |
Conventional professional microneedling | A pen (or, less often, a roller or stamp) with sterile needles creates channels at a set depth | The type covered by most of this guide |
Radiofrequency (RF) microneedling | Needles deliver heat into the deeper skin as well as puncturing it | Different evidence, longer redness, and risks that include burns |
Home rollers and pens | Short needles used on your own skin | Less effect and real risks of infection and scarring |
Microneedling with an added product | A serum, PRP, polynucleotides or exosomes applied to the skin during or after treatment | Evidence for the product is separate from evidence for microneedling |
Conventional microneedling
Most professional treatment now uses a motorised pen, which moves the needles in and out quickly and allows the depth to be adjusted for each area. Rollers are an older method. The research on facial lines, acne scars and stretch marks discussed below mostly involves conventional microneedling.
Radiofrequency microneedling
RF microneedling uses insulated or uninsulated needles that deliver radiofrequency energy, which heats the tissue, at the needle tips. It is a different procedure, with its own studies. A 2025 review of 16 studies of RF microneedling for acne scars concluded it is likely to be effective. Redness usually settled within hours to a few days, although in one study it lasted almost eight days on average, and darkening of the skin, track marks and a cold-sore flare-up were reported. No study included the darkest skin type. [6]
In October 2025 the US Food and Drug Administration warned of burns, scarring, fat loss, disfigurement and nerve damage after RF microneedling, and stated that it "is a medical procedure, not a cosmetic treatment". [7] That warning concerns US devices and practice, but the risks it describes are relevant anywhere. In England, a 2023 government consultation proposed placing microneedling in the lowest-risk group of a future licensing scheme and radiofrequency treatments in a higher-risk group. The scheme is not yet in force. [8] Juvenology's microneedling service does not list RF microneedling.
Home devices
Home rollers and pens have shorter needles and are not a substitute for professional treatment. The American Academy of Dermatology says they give less noticeable results and can cause irritation, infection, scarring and changes in skin colour, and can spread warts, cold sores and other viral infections. [2, 9] A case of chickenpox spread from the chest to the face by a home roller has been reported. [5]
What a device's approval covers
In the US, microneedling devices have been authorised to improve the appearance of facial acne scars, facial wrinkles and abdominal scars in adults aged 22 and over. [10] An authorisation for one use does not cover every area of the body, every concern, or the products applied alongside the device. US authorisations also do not decide what is permitted in the UK.
What can microneedling help?
The evidence differs a great deal from one concern to another. Most studies are small, many have no untreated comparison group, and many measure satisfaction rather than a measured change. The summary below is for conventional microneedling unless stated otherwise.
Concern | What the evidence shows | How strong it is |
Fine lines and texture | High satisfaction in a review of 21 studies; few standardised measurements [11] | Mostly small, uncontrolled studies |
Rolling and boxcar acne scars | Improvement in many studies; often combined with other treatments [3] | Moderate, mostly small trials |
Icepick scars | Often respond poorly [3] | As above |
Enlarged-looking pores | No trial of microneedling alone measuring pores was found | Not established |
Melasma | Studied mainly as an add-on to other treatments [12] | Moderate for combinations; weak alone |
Stretch marks | Similar improvement to lasers in early studies [13] | Early evidence |
Volume loss or sagging | Not what microneedling is designed to treat | Not applicable |
Fine lines and skin texture
A 2025 systematic review of microneedling for facial rejuvenation found 21 studies with 723 patients, most of them women with an average age of 48. The studies looked mainly at wrinkles, and some at texture, sun damage or laxity. Across the studies, 83% of patients were satisfied. That figure is patients' own rating, though, and the authors noted that the studies used no standardised way of measuring the result, so the size of the improvement is hard to judge. Nearly all the studies used several sessions, but the number and spacing varied. [11]
In practice, this means microneedling may make fine lines and rough texture look somewhat softer and smoother. It is not a treatment for deep folds, lost volume or significant sagging. If those are your main concerns, a different assessment is more useful.
Acne scars
Microneedling is most often studied for atrophic acne scars, the kind that sit below the surface of the skin. Different types respond differently:
Rolling scars (broad, soft dips) and boxcar scars (wider scars with sharper edges) have shown the greatest improvement.
Icepick scars (narrow, deep pits) are often resistant to microneedling. [3]
Many acne-scar studies combine microneedling with another treatment, such as subcision (releasing tethered scars from beneath), chemical peels or PRP. [14, 15, 16] In studies that compared them directly, peels or PRP combined with microneedling usually did better than microneedling alone. [15, 16] Treatment can make scars less noticeable, but it cannot remove them completely. [17]
Flat red or brown marks left after spots are not scars. They often fade over time and are treated differently. Active acne also needs to be settled first. Juvenology's guide to acne scars explains scar types, the alternatives and how to choose between them in detail.
Enlarged-looking pores
Pores are often listed as a benefit of microneedling, but no trial of microneedling on its own that measured pore size was found. Smoother texture may make pores look less obvious. Microneedling does not close or remove pores, and any change is likely to be modest.
Pigmentation and melasma
"Pigmentation" covers several different problems, including sun spots, melasma (patchy brown pigment, often on the cheeks and forehead) and the marks left after inflammation. They need different approaches, and some need a medical opinion first.
For melasma, a meta-analysis of 18 trials found that microneedling was studied mainly as an add-on to other treatments, where it improved results compared with those treatments alone. Only two studies tested it on its own, and it produced smaller improvements. Some people developed darker patches after treatment. [12] Because irritation can itself trigger pigment, microneedling is not a first-line treatment for melasma on its own, and anyone with pigment concerns needs a careful assessment first.
Stretch marks and other scars
A 2024 meta-analysis of 11 studies, which included both conventional and radiofrequency microneedling, found that microneedling improved stretch marks about as much as laser treatment, with less darkening of the skin afterwards but more pain. The authors described this as early evidence. [13] Results on the body cannot be assumed to apply to the face, or the other way round, because skin thickness and healing differ.
Neck and décolleté
No independent published trial of conventional microneedling for the neck was found. Juvenology's guide to neck wrinkles explains the evidence for neck treatments more generally.
Added products: vitamins, PRP, polynucleotides and exosomes
Microneedling is often offered with a product applied to the skin during or straight after treatment. Evidence that microneedling helps a concern is not evidence that the product adds anything. For each product, the useful questions are: what exactly is it, is it applied to the skin or injected, is it designed for use on skin that has just been microneedled, and has it been shown to work better than microneedling alone?
Applying products to freshly needled skin can carry them into deeper layers. Lumps (granulomas) and allergic reactions, including one with fever and joint pain, have been reported after microneedling with skincare serums that were not intended for this. [18] A large safety review advises great caution with products that are not approved for use within the skin. [19]
Vitamin serums ("vitamin mesotherapy")
"Mesotherapy" usually means injecting small amounts of a product into the skin. At Juvenology, Microneedling: Vitamin Mesotherapy uses a vitamin-rich serum that is worked into the skin during microneedling. It is applied to the skin, not injected. Ask which product is used and what it contains.
The evidence for added vitamins is limited. In one small trial of 31 people, a vitamin C, E and ferulic acid serum applied daily after microneedling improved signs of sun damage more than a placebo serum at 12 weeks. The manufacturer supplied the product and one author worked for it, and the serum was a specific branded formulation. [20] Results for one serum cannot be assumed for another. A review of injected mesotherapy for facial rejuvenation found that proof of its effectiveness is still lacking. [21]
Platelet-rich plasma (PRP)
PRP is prepared from a small sample of your own blood and contains a concentrated amount of platelets. At Juvenology it is applied to the skin during microneedling, not injected separately.
For acne scars, a 2022 meta-analysis of 14 studies found that microneedling with PRP more often produced an improvement of more than 50% than microneedling alone or with another substance such as saline. Most studies were small and not fully randomised, many came from a few countries, and the review did not report whether PRP was applied to the skin or injected. [16] For general skin rejuvenation, evidence for PRP is of low to very low certainty. [22] PRP preparations also differ between systems. Because PRP comes from your own blood, allergy is unlikely, but the blood draw can bruise and any procedure carries a risk of infection.
Polynucleotides
Polynucleotides are purified fragments of fish DNA, best known as an injected skin treatment. At Juvenology, microneedling with polynucleotides uses a product applied through microneedling rather than injected.
Evidence for injected polynucleotides cannot be transferred to products applied during microneedling. In a trial of 29 people treated with radiofrequency microneedling, a polynucleotide serum applied to one side of the face made no difference to maximum wrinkle depth compared with saline on the other side, and people rated both sides similarly, although one measure of wrinkle indentation favoured the polynucleotide side. [23] The guide to polynucleotides explains the injected treatment and its evidence.
Exosomes
Exosomes are tiny particles released by cells, which carry proteins and other molecules between them. They are not stem cells. Laboratory interest is high, but clinical studies are lacking, and reviews note unanswered safety questions. [24]
At Juvenology, exosome treatment uses a topical product applied straight after microneedling. It is not injected. No adequately sized controlled trial was found comparing topical exosomes plus microneedling with microneedling alone. One 15-person split-face study, part-funded by the exosome manufacturer, compared exosomes with PRP after radiofrequency microneedling and had no microneedling-only comparison. [25] The UK advertising regulator has upheld a complaint against an exosome skincare product because it had seen no evidence the exosomes worked as claimed. [26] Cosmetics containing exosomes from human cells are not permitted in the UK, so it is reasonable to ask where any exosome product comes from. [27] In the US, no exosome product is approved by the FDA. [28]
The overall picture
For most added products, it is not yet clear whether they improve results compared with microneedling alone. PRP for acne scars has the most supporting evidence. The choice of product changes the price, and it should be based on your concern and on what the product has been shown to do, not on its name.
Who should wait or choose something else
Whether microneedling is suitable depends on your skin, your health and the device being used. Some situations mean treatment should not go ahead, some mean it should be postponed, and some call for extra care.
Usually not suitable, or needs a medical opinion first. The American Academy of Dermatology advises against microneedling for people who heal poorly, form keloid scars, have a weakened immune system, have skin cancer in the area or are having radiotherapy. [2]
Usually postponed. Treatment is normally delayed if you have a tan or recent sunburn, a skin infection, or painful, pus-filled acne in the area. [2] Microneedling is not carried out over active breakouts, so acne needs to be settled first. Flare-ups of eczema, psoriasis or rosacea in the area are also a reason to wait.
Needs discussion.
Cold sores. Microneedling can reactivate the cold-sore virus, so mention it if you get them. [3]
Allergies. Tell your practitioner about any allergy to metals (such as nickel), numbing creams or skincare products. Metal allergy is a recognised risk factor for reactions. [19]
Medicines. These include blood thinners, medicines that affect healing or the immune system, and recent or current acne tablets. Do not stop a prescribed medicine to have a cosmetic treatment.
Previous treatments in the area, including fillers, peels, laser or other microneedling.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding. There is little research on microneedling in either.
Isotretinoin
Isotretinoin is a prescription tablet for severe acne. Older advice was to wait 6 to 12 months after finishing it before any skin procedure. A 2017 expert review found that this advice rested on three small case series from the mid-1980s, and that there was not enough evidence to justify delaying several procedures. That review did not consider microneedling specifically. [29] An Indian expert guideline concluded that microneedling can be performed in people taking isotretinoin, but its evidence was limited. [30] The American Academy of Dermatology advises waiting at least one month after the last dose. [2] Some UK hospital leaflets still advise waiting 6 to 12 months before certain other skin procedures. [31]
Because the guidance differs, the timing should be decided at an individual assessment, with your prescriber's advice where needed.
Darker skin tones
Microneedling can be used on all skin tones. Because it leaves most of the skin surface intact, it is often considered lower-risk for darker skin than some lasers and deeper peels. [32, 33] It is not risk-free, though. Darker skin is more prone to temporary darkening (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) after any injury, and this has been reported after microneedling. [19, 2] In the studies that reported it, the darkening usually faded within months, on its own or with treatment. [3] Many facial-rejuvenation studies included mainly lighter to medium skin types, so the evidence is thinner for the darkest skin tones. Assessment, a cautious approach to depth and strict sun protection matter.
What happens at an appointment
Before treatment. A consultation should cover your main concern and goal, your skin type, medical history, medicines, allergies and previous treatments. You should be told what microneedling can and cannot change for your concern, the risks, the recovery, how many sessions might be suggested, the total cost, and any added product proposed. You should have time to decide.
On the day. At Juvenology, the skin is cleansed and numbing cream is applied. Needle depth is set for each area: shallower on thin skin, such as around the eyes, and deeper over acne scarring. Most people feel light pressure or a fine prickling. The appointment usually takes under an hour from arrival to leaving. I carry out every microneedling treatment at Juvenology myself.
Hygiene. The needle cartridge should be sterile and used once only, and any product applied to the treated skin should be one designed for that purpose. Foreign-body reactions have been reported after products not intended for broken skin were used during microneedling. [18, 19]
Recovery, aftercare and warning signs
What to expect. The skin is usually red, warm and tight afterwards, like mild sunburn. Some people also have swelling, tenderness, dryness or flaking. In studies, redness usually lasted one to two days, and occasionally up to a week. [1, 2, 5] Visible recovery is quicker than the skin's repair underneath, which continues for weeks.
Aftercare at Juvenology. The clinic's usual advice is to avoid make-up for 24 hours, to avoid strenuous exercise, saunas and alcohol for 48 hours, and to wear SPF every day. You will be given written aftercare for your treatment, and that takes priority over general advice. More intensive treatments, such as those for scarring, may need longer: one NHS scar-therapy leaflet advises avoiding make-up, sweaty exercise, hot baths, saunas and swimming for 72 hours, and avoiding the sun for 7 days. [1] Reintroduce active products such as retinoids and acids only when your skin has settled, and as advised.
Possible complications. Most side effects are mild and settle within a week. Less common problems include:
infection
prolonged irritation or an allergic reaction
darker or lighter patches
cold-sore reactivation
small lumps (granulomas), especially after unsuitable products
scarring, including tram-track marks. [19, 5]
When to get help. Contact the clinic if redness, swelling or pain is getting worse rather than better after the first two days, or if you notice pus, crusting, blisters, a rash or new lumps. Skin that is painful, hot and swollen may be a skin infection (cellulitis), and redness can be harder to see on brown or black skin: contact the clinic straight away, or ask for an urgent GP appointment or get help from NHS 111. Call 999 or go to A&E if you also have a very high temperature or feel hot, cold or shivery, have a fast heartbeat or breathing, feel dizzy, faint or confused, or have cold, clammy or pale skin. [34]
Results, sessions and courses
When might you notice a change? Skin may look fresher once the redness settles, but this is partly swelling. Improvements linked to collagen remodelling usually take weeks, and full results several months. [2] Progress is best judged a few months after a course, with photographs taken in the same light and position.
Why several sessions? Most studies used a series of treatments, but the number and spacing varied. [11] The American Academy of Dermatology describes three to five treatments every two to four weeks for acne scars. [2] An NHS scar-therapy service uses four to six sessions at least six weeks apart. [1] At Juvenology, most people have three sessions, four to six weeks apart, and deeper acne scarring often needs more. These are typical plans, not a requirement, and more frequent treatment is not shown to work better.
How long do results last? This is not well established. Skin continues to age, and the American Academy of Dermatology says a yearly maintenance session may be recommended, but there is little research on how long results last. [2]
What if there is little improvement? Some concerns, such as icepick scars or melasma, often respond poorly to microneedling alone. If you see little benefit after a course, it is reasonable to stop and consider another approach, rather than continue indefinitely.
Costs and the Juvenology course
At Juvenology, microneedling is priced by the product used with it:
Treatment | Listed price per session |
Microneedling: Vitamin Mesotherapy | £200 |
Microneedling with polynucleotides | £250 |
Microneedling with PRP | £250 |
Microneedling with exosomes | £300 |
The microneedling skin course. The clinic also lists a course of three Microneedling: Vitamin Mesotherapy sessions for £540, which is £60 less than three single sessions at £200 each (£180 per session). The course covers the vitamin mesotherapy treatment only. It does not include PRP, polynucleotides, exosomes or a scar-specific plan, and three sessions are not the right number for everyone. Ask about the course's validity and cancellation terms when you book.
The in-person consultation is listed at £50, and the microneedling page says a skin check is included in treatment, so please check when you book whether you need a separate consultation first. These prices were checked on 20 October 2026; please confirm current fees when you book.
When comparing prices elsewhere, ask what device is used, whether the price includes any added product, how many sessions are suggested, whether a review is included and what the total cost of the plan will be. There is no reliable source for an average UK price.
Frequently asked questions
Does microneedling hurt?
Numbing cream is often applied first, and most people feel pressure or a prickling sensation. Areas over bone and deeper settings for scarring can feel more uncomfortable. Afterwards, the skin may feel sore and tight, like mild sunburn, for a day or two.
How long will my skin be red?
Usually one to two days, and sometimes up to a week. [1, 2] It can take longer after more intensive treatment, and it varies between people.
How many sessions will I need?
It depends on your concern. Studies usually used several sessions, but the number and spacing varied. [11] At Juvenology, most people have three sessions, four to six weeks apart, and deeper acne scarring often needs more.
Can I microneedle at home?
Home rollers and pens use shorter needles and are not a substitute for professional treatment. The American Academy of Dermatology warns that home microneedling gives less noticeable results and can cause infection, scarring and changes in skin colour, and can spread viral infections such as warts and cold sores. [2, 9]
Can microneedling remove acne scars?
It can make some scars, especially rolling and boxcar scars, less noticeable, but it cannot remove them completely. [3, 17] See the guide to acne scars.
Is microneedling suitable for dark skin?
It can be, and it is often considered lower-risk than some lasers and deeper peels. Temporary darkening of the skin can still happen, so assessment, careful technique and daily sun protection matter. [32, 19]
Book a microneedling consultation in Maidstone
If you are wondering whether microneedling, another treatment or no treatment is right for your skin, a consultation at Juvenology Clinic in Maidstone gives you time to talk it through. I will look at your skin, ask about your health and what you would like to change, and explain the options, what the evidence shows, the risks, the recovery and the likely cost. You do not need to choose a treatment before booking, and there is no obligation to go ahead.
The in-person consultation is listed at £50. If you would rather talk first, you can request a free discovery call on WhatsApp. The discovery call helps you choose the next step, but it is not a clinical assessment.
About the author
Marina Kostadinova-Yankova is the founder of Juvenology Clinic in Maidstone, Kent. She is a registered nurse with the Nursing and Midwifery Council (NMC) and has more than 25 years of nursing experience. She is listed with the Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP), is a member of the Royal College of Nursing, and has trained in aesthetic injectables with ACE Group and Derma Medical. Read more about Marina.
This article is general information and does not replace individual medical advice. Suitability, benefits and risks can only be judged at a personal assessment. Information was checked in October 2026.
References
American Academy of Dermatology. 5 unsafe skin care trends to avoid. 1 November 2023.
US Food and Drug Administration. Microneedling devices. Content current as of 15 October 2025.
Advertising Standards Authority. ASA ruling on 111 Skin Ltd. 13 May 2026.
US Food and Drug Administration. Public safety notification on exosome products. 6 December 2019.